Why We Choose Horween. And Why You Should, Too.

What sets a really good piece of leather apart from the rest? And what does traditional leather tanning actually look like? We got the answers to all our questions on a recent trip to Horween Leather Company’s headquarters in Chicago. Going behind the scenes to meet their team and see the tanning process firsthand gave us a new appreciation for the leather we’ve been working with for over a decade. Here’s what we learned, and why we continue to source our leather from Horween.

When we started working leather into our designs in 2015, we knew we wanted to partner with the best tannery we could find. That search led us to Horween Leather Company, one of the oldest continuously operated tanneries in the United States.

It all began in 1905, when Ukrainian immigrant Isadore Horween opened a tannery in Chicago. More than a century later, the company is still family-owned and operated, and its knowledge has been passed down through the people who work there.

For Skip Horween, Isadore’s great-grandson and the company’s current president, that history is personal. One of his earliest memories is hugging his father and catching the familiar smell of Cordovan oils. Today, he walks the same halls his family has worked in for generations.

You can see that history in the leather itself. Instead of rushing things, Horween sticks with age-old techniques, carefully developed recipes, and the trained eyes and hands of experienced craftspeople. Depending on the leather, the process can take up to two months. It’s slower and more involved, but that’s the whole point. Every stage builds on the one before, and they all combine to shape the leather’s final look and feel.

A great piece of leather starts with a great hide. Horween sources hides from cattle processing facilities in Illinois and beyond. Because the hides are a byproduct of the meat industry, using them to create leather gives the material another purpose rather than letting it go to waste.

Once the hides arrive at the tannery, they begin a multistage process that transforms raw material into finished leather. Cleaning and preparation come first, followed by tanning, drying, and finishing.

01—Cleaning & Preparing

The hides are cleaned to remove dirt and unwanted material, then processed to remove their hair and prepare the fibers for tanning. From there, they're ready for one of the two primary tanning methods Horween uses: chrome tanning or vegetable tanning. 

02—Tanning

For chrome tanning, the hides are placed in large wooden drums with chromium salts for just over two days. This process stabilizes the hide's fibers, creating a strong, flexible, and heat-resistant material known as wet blue.

Vegetable tanning takes a different approach. Hides are submerged in wooden pits filled with custom-prepared tanning liquors made with tree bark and other plant materials. Horween prepares these liquors in-house using recipes that date back to 1905, with tree barks sourced from around the world. The process is slow, often taking 30 to 60 days or longer. As the hides absorb natural tannins, the leather develops a dense, firm structure and a distinctive character. The bark also contributes to the leather’s woody color and appearance.

03—Drying & Finishing

Once tanning is complete, the hides are run through wringers to remove excess water and hung to dry. From there, they’re sorted by characteristics like thickness, size, and grain quality, then shaved and split to even them out.

Next comes retanning and oil stuffing. The hides return to the drums, where oils and other natural ingredients help develop the leather's desired feel and performance. They're then dyed using different methods, which can include drum dyeing, brush finishing, and hand application.

Finally, the surface is finished to achieve the desired look. Depending on the leather and its intended use, this can mean a matte or polished appearance, a finish that reveals more of the underlying color, or another distinctive treatment.

Each step builds on the last, and the finished product reflects not just the quality of the original hide, but the care taken throughout the entire process.

04—Distribution

Once the leather is finished, it’s ready to make its way to manufacturers like us. Horween leather is used by some of the most recognizable names in sports and footwear, including Wilson, whose game balls are used in the NFL and NBA, along with renowned footwear brands in the U.S. and around the world. 

The leather takes center stage, but what really brings it life is more than just the raw product—it’s the people behind the scenes. The Horween team includes craftspeople whose experience has been built over years, with some family connections to the tannery spanning generations. Their knowledge isn't limited to following a set of instructions. It comes from understanding how leather behaves, recognizing subtle differences between hides, and knowing what to look for at every stage.

At the helm is Skip, who very fittingly compares his role to that of an orchestra conductor. Like musicians in an orchestra, every person and process at Horween has a part to play, and the final result depends on how well they all work together.

While technology has made tanning faster and easier, skilled people remain essential to the work being done at Horween. Machines can help make a process faster, but they can't replace the trained eye that recognizes a particular grain or the experienced hand that knows when a hide would benefit from a different finishing method.

The story of leather doesn't end when it leaves the tannery. In many ways, that's where the journey really begins. From the moment you start using it, the leather begins to change. Light, everyday contact, and natural oils all contribute to its appearance. Color deepens, the surface develops a richer character. Little by little, a patina emerges that's unique to you and the life you lead.

Horween's tanning and finishing techniques help create leather that's supple, durable, and ready to develop that character over time. Rather than hiding signs of use, the leather allows those marks to become part of its story.

And while leather naturally changes, it’s one of the most durable soft materials available. Horween's attention to quality helps create a material that can hold up to everyday wear and continue serving you for years to come. As Skip puts it: 

It's a simple idea that says a lot about how Horween approaches its work: make something well, make it last, and let the person who owns it decide when its story is finished.

At Nomad, we make gear that helps you get more out of your tech. We want our products to be functional, thoughtfully designed, and built for the realities of everyday use. Horween brings something special to that mission: a material with a rich history, a distinct feel, and character that only grows with time.

There's something compelling about pairing traditional leather craftsmanship with the technology we rely on every day. Your phone may be designed to keep up with the latest and greatest innovations, but the leather around it carries a sense of permanence. It's a reminder that good design doesn't have to be disposable.

An iPhone case, for example, is handled dozens of times a day. It travels from your pocket to your desk, comes along on trips, and collects the small marks of everyday life. It's a natural setting for leather that develops a unique patina through use. The same goes for a wallet you carry everywhere, or a watch band that becomes part of your daily routine.

We design our products to bring out the best in that material, pairing Horween leather with thoughtful details and the functionality your tech demands

After spending time with Skip and his team, we came away with an even clearer understanding of why this partnership works. It's not just about choosing a great material. It's about sharing a commitment to making products with care and putting the customer first. As Skip explained, our companies share the same objectives: to make something better and honor the customer in the process.

Now, it's your turn. Choose the Nomad gear that fits your everyday carry and experience Horween's craftsmanship firsthand. We love seeing your leather out and about, so send us a photo of yours at support@nomadgoods.com.